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Materials Needed:
PB BLASTER!!! (This will be your BEST friend)
Emergency Brake Cable
Calipers (do yourself a favor and get 'em from a 95 or higher car)
Discs
Pads
Anti-rattle clips/springs
Hubs with Spindle
Brake Lines
Brake Fluid
Read through the entire set of directions before starting... read through them AGAIN when you get the car on jackstands
MMk... As a note... if you buy a complete rear subframe everything you need is INCLUDED!!!!!
Your first step will be to get the car in the air... preferably the back end... to make life easier, do the whole car as high as your jackstands will hold it... safely...
Next, remove the wheels... duh
Your next task will be to soak every bolt you see with PB Blaster...well... not EVERY bolt... but all the ones you have to remove...
Wait for 30 minutes... Spray the bolts again
Wait for 10 minutes... trust me... you'll be much happier this way
Since the car's on jackstands... right? good... put your jack under the rear subframe to give it a little support... just jack it up until there's some resistance and then back off... you don't want to take the cars off the jackstands and then start wailin' on bolts...
The subframe is held on by 4 14mm bolts... be careful with these... they break off easily... kinda scary... the bolts are tiny...
Next, remove the 17mm bolt holding the control arm to the hub, pop it off...
Remove the brake line where it connects at the body... DON'T take off the clip... it'll be easier, trust me... I used the crescent wrench for this...
Remove the 17mm strut bolts
The subframe is now completely seperate from the car... with the help of some friends or family members, lower the subframe down and pull it out from under the car... this is what you should have... minus the struts... that is what I started out with...
Under the car will look like this
Now it's time to run the ebrake cable... JOY!!
Gain access to the bare metal ebrake handle inside the car
Remove the 10mm nut from the adjuster bolt and knock the bolt free of the Ebrake handle
Unbolt the exhaust at the rear of the cat and remove it from the hanger just in front of the rear passenger wheel well, this will give you space to access the ebrake cable
Remove the first heatshield, just after the cat... 4 10mm nut... WATCH OUT! these bolts like to break off... I lost two...
Pull out the heat sheild and remove the 3 10mm bolts holding the ebrake anchor thingie to the car
Follow the path of the exhaust and remove 1 12mm bolt from just under the heatshield and there's one in the same location on the other side.
Finally, the cable is attached to both control arms by 2 12mm nuts... be sure these have soaked, because they're vital to the operation of the ebrake... if you break them off, you're in deep shit...
Install is reverse of removal for the ebrake cable
NOW! To the subframe!
The subframe I bought had massive amounts of rust, so I opted to NOT use it... I unbolted all 4 suspension arms and pulled them off the subframe... getting them off the hub turned out to be too much trouble and I just swapped them to my subframe
The suspension arms are held on by 1 17mm bolt a piece... the bolts do NOT go all the way through... depending on your car, there should be little doors on the subframe to see in for alignment purposes, remove those and you'll see where you need to be...
Remove those bolts and pull the cursed drums off of your subframe and rejoice... yay
Swap in your new hubs with attached suspension arms... don't forget to mount your new discs, pads, and hardware...
Now you have this
Since I got my parts from a 93 Probe GT with 180K on it that got hit by a tree and sat for a couple weeks, I replaced the discs new, pads new, and calipers from a junked 95... of course, with new anti-rattle clips, etc... Get your local AutoZone's Disc Brake Hardware Kit...
It's now time to put your subframe back in place... w00t!
Plop it back on that trusty jack and with the help of two friends, raise it back into place and bolt it down.
Reattach your control arms and tighten down the 17mm bolt
Be sure your ebrake handle is all the way down... attach the ebrake cable at the caliper
Attach the brake line to the solid metal one running from underneath the car
Put the struts bolts back in... they may need to go in backwards to avoid the caliper... you can figure it out...
Now it's time to bleed the brakes.... so... bleed the brakes..
Adjust the rear calipers as per Blackshine007's instructions somewhere on the site... I don't feel like typing them out...
Put your wheels back on, torque 'em down to spec
Set the car down on the ground and adjust the ebrake to your liking...
You're done... Merry fucking Christmas...
My brakes work great... the car stops great, but as a note... you MUST get an Ebrake cable off a 626... the Probe is too short... mine was about 6 inches short... and it SUCKED...
Injury list:
Dropped the dremel while using it, caught it by the cutting disc that was spinning at 35,000 rpms... melted a nice groove in the palm of my hand
Blister under my right middle finger on the callus from too much wrenching
Skinned Knuckles
And remember to wear clothing you don't care about...
Trust me...
My trusty helper that was there for 20 minutes... I worked 8 hours... Angie is behind the camera...
NOTE!!!!!
A Probe Ebrake cable will NOT WORK!!!! No matter what you do, it will not work... I tried everything